Raising Chicks 101: A Beginner’s Guide to Happy, Healthy Hens

There’s something incredibly rewarding about raising your own chicks — watching them grow from fluffy little puffballs into confident, egg-laying hens is a joy like no other. Whether you're adding to your backyard flock or starting from scratch, here's a straightforward guide to raising healthy, happy chicks.

Getting Started:

Before your chicks arrive, you’ll want to set up a safe, warm space for them — this is called a brooder. It doesn’t have to be fancy — a large plastic tub, wooden box, or even a sturdy cardboard box will do the job as long as it’s draft-free and secure.

Brooder Essentials:

Heat source: A heat lamp or brooder plate to keep them warm (35°C in the first week, dropping by 3°C per week)

Bedding: Wood shavings or straw (avoid slippery surfaces like newspaper as these can cause splay legs)

Feeder and waterer: Shallow, chick-safe options to avoid spills and drowning

Starter feed: High-protein chick starter crumble, ideally medicated to help protect against coccidiosis. We stock and use the Old Mill Free Range feeds so can add this to your chick order as needed. 

Week-by-Week Care

Weeks 1–2: Chicks stay close to the heat and nap often. Handle gently to get them used to people.

Weeks 3–4: Wing feathers come in and personalities emerge. You may see some pecking order behaviour begin.

Weeks 5–6: Most chicks are feathered and ready to explore outside on warmer days (supervised and safe from predators). This is a great time to make sure you are on top of trapping and predator control in their coop before moving them outside. 

By 6–8 weeks, depending on your climate and their development, your chicks can move to their outdoor coop. This is also a great time to transition them to a Pullet Grower feed. 

Transitioning to the Coop

Make sure their new home is draft-free, predator-proof, and has plenty of space (allow at least 1 square metre per bird in the coop, and more in the run). Fresh water, balanced feed, and a clean environment are key.

If you’re introducing them to older hens, do it slowly and through a fence initially and then with supervision to avoid bullying.

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